Need input on Tudor Snowflake sub

[army scope jockey]

1981 94110 snowflake with C&I bracelet. Any issues with this sub??

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[interestedwatcher]

The 1981 Tudor Sub should be on a 9315 I think.

[army scope jockey]

Yep 9315 with 380 end links.

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[Dan Pierce]

Agree about the wrong bracelet. I don't see anything that stands out. Hate to play devil's advocate but the patina looks a little too consistent. If real, it's a stunner.
dP

[MrChamfers]

That lume should glow briefly after being hit with UV light, yes?

[army scope jockey]

Tritium half life is about 13 years. So after 40 yrs may not lume at all. I have a 1970 1680 and lume dead on hands and dial.

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[harry in montreal]

The dial is very nice. I concur about the band but those Rolex 9315s tend to really deteriorate. The back looks right. The hands may have been matched. You should ask or request a black light photo.
My only fault are the lugs. Look at that first pic. It’s really smoothed. In every shot thf orig shape has been lost.

[MrChamfers]

Originally Posted by army scope jockey

Tritium half life is about 13 years. So after 40 yrs may not lume at all. I have a 1970 1680 and lume dead on hands and dial.

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Right, I was thinking the phosphors in the paint would still glow under UV.

[TuRo]

1971-84 some do, some don't no hard rule ref lume. 7206 is a bonus as £750 more than a 9315 edit- just seen it's a cheaper straight link c and I that are a bit flimsy so not as good as a 9315.. Looks nice orig. Crown and plexi perhaps - I'd be happy with case and hands look original to me (they have picked up a darker colour from oil ingress towards the pinion).
* Little point on these 7016 and 9411 - early service dials looked exactly like the originals fitted 12-18 yrs earlier, so many that went a bit volcano/pock marked (especially the one year only SWISS 1970 dial that was heavily susceptible) got switched out to newer dials in the 80s and v early 90s, and there is no way to tell other than they stay very crisp and uniform and therefore many mint blue and blacks are on second dials. Of course later service dials had the T SWISS [] MADE T around 6 marker.

[FrenchBigCrown]

My gut says the hands have been matched - no real 'evidence' for it - just a 'feeling'.

Even so, it's a lovely watch - I'd happily wear it.

[army scope jockey]

Thanks for all the input . The dealer is a touch optomistic price wise at 14k.

May try to beat him down. I have a 7836 that will work.

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[army scope jockey]

It will keep my 79190 company.

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[linesiders]

Is this a 94x-96x,xxx serial? This is the outboard T SWISS T dial starting 94x ish.

What year is stamped on the C&I?

Photos are not good enough to tell if hands are original but I suspect they are. If original they will likely have the stabilization on the hands that gives a gloss finish. The good, the hands do not have the corrosion more common on late 70s/early 80s hands.

Crown looks a little thin and cannot make out crimp marks on back of crown.

Originally Posted by MrChamfers

That lume should glow briefly after being hit with UV light, yes?

Not necessarily, a lot of the later ones won't glow. But those that don't, put them in a box for24 hours, take the box into a fully darkened room, wait 5 min for your eyes to adjust, open the box. You may make out a faint glow.

[army scope jockey]

Blurb from seller.

Yes it looks like this is the C&I bracelet - The watch is with our watchmaker at the moment getting serviced so I can't get my hands on it at the moment to check the date on the clasp. The tritium dial, hands and bezel are all original and untouched

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[MrChamfers]

Originally Posted by linesiders

Is this a 94x-96x,xxx serial? This is the outboard T SWISS T dial starting 94x ish.

What year is stamped on the C&I?

Photos are not good enough to tell if hands are original but I suspect they are. If original they will likely have the stabilization on the hands that gives a gloss finish. The good, the hands do not have the corrosion more common on late 70s/early 80s hands.

Crown looks a little thin and cannot make out crimp marks on back of crown.



Not necessarily, a lot of the later ones won't glow. But those that don't, put them in a box for24 hours, take the box into a fully darkened room, wait 5 min for your eyes to adjust, open the box. You may make out a faint glow.

I would take a really close look at the lume if it is completely dead then. It seems like it would be difficult to tell relume from original in that case.
The 60's and some 70's dials are easier to verify for me, with either the waffle or dome style, and a very slight reaction to UV.

[linesiders]

Originally Posted by MrChamfers

I would take a really close look at the lume if it is completely dead then. It seems like it would be difficult to tell relume from original in that case.
The 60's and some 70's dials are easier to verify for me, with either the waffle or dome style, and a very slight reaction to UV.

The will still usually have sparkles under UV when dead.

[tekno]

I guess one bonus of having a little more “patina” on your dial is knowing it’s original. I would prefer the mint dial though.


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[TuRo]

Originally Posted by tekno

I guess one bonus of having a little more “patina” on your dial is knowing it’s original. I would prefer the mint dial though.


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To complicate matters even more, some mid 70 to early 80 snowflakes with their original dials are white (no patina) in appearance - but most are 2nd dial service version dials. Never said it would be easy ... Frankly as long as it's a legit Tudor dial j don't get too worked up about it. Forgeries are easy to spot thankfully

[Wahlberg]

Any news?

[army scope jockey]

Trying to do some horse trading with the stealer but it appears to be stalled stalled at an impasse.

Will see if he has a change of heart in a few weeks with our tanking economy.


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[fizz]

Coincidentally, got in touch with the same seller and asked for some additional pics and details since the watch was still available.

It is on hold for me at the moment and I might go ahead with it. The only real issue seems to be the overpolished bottom left lugs (already pointed out) and the incorrect bracelet. In my view, the hour hand may also have been replaced or stabilised, but I am not 100% sure.

Any more thoughts are welcome.

[LetMeHearItNow]

Originally Posted by fizz

Coincidentally, got in touch with the same seller and asked for some additional pics and details since the watch was still available.

It is on hold for me at the moment and I might go ahead with it. The only real issue seems to be the overpolished bottom left lugs (already pointed out) and the incorrect bracelet. In my view, the hour hand may also have been replaced or stabilised, but I am not 100% sure.

Any more thoughts are welcome.

I agree with you on the lugs, it would be tough for me personally to look at those every time I glance at my watch, but that’s just preference.

More importantly, and this could I’m sure be easily explained, how do you pass a pressure test without a case back gasket? It’s neither stuck to the case as they get sometimes when the gasket has been lubed nor is it on the case back itself. They could have very well just removed it for the pictures but that seems odd. The lugs are the thing for me. Looking at rounded off lugs is just a killer for me personally. It’d be different if they were with softer edges due to wear but that doesn’t seem to be the case. No pun intended.


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