Why the 1908 over Saxonia / 1815 or Calatrava 6119?

[Guppydriver]

Honest question.

I’ll never be able to afford a PM piece like any of these without liquidating the bulk of my collection (which I don’t want to do) BUT…

I’m very curious as to the mindset behind those fortunate enough to afford and acquire a 1908.

I think the 1908 is beautiful, but it has some competition. Why would you choose it over …say these references ?


Lange Saxonia. The strongest price point competitor at 23k. Seems logical that they will be cross shopped.


1815. I know 9k is heaps of money, but you’re spending a lot anyway and the 9k is less than a third more. Is money the only reason you would take the 1908 over this gorgeous ALS?


Finally. The “sub” of dress watches. The Calatrava. The most affordable small seconds reference is the 6119 at $31.9k. Like the ALS 1815, it’s a ton of money , but I threw it in as it seemed like a formidable, albeit, pricey competitor.


Again … Just curious what your thoughts are. If I was in a position to buy 1908, I would be thinking about this question. I can’t wait for the eventual incomings of the 1908 !!

Pros. Cons. Thoughts ?


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[sportsfan0704]

Completely agree. There are better dress watches out there for less money, used, especially from Patek. AP also has some great ones from a few years back and prior. Some people who want a dress watch and want a hyped brand may scoff at ALS, VC, or JLC, but when AP and Patek have better dress watches for less money...

[Calatrava r]

Exactly. Rolex dress watches have tough competition and the folks who want them step up to the models you mention instead of Rolex. I think Jaeger LeCoutre is a better buy for a similar price point also. When you talk dress watches movement finish is a big deal also.

[ninjasaurus]

Pro: it’s a Rolex
Con: it’s not Lange or Patek
Lange all the way for me

[Krash]

Originally Posted by Guppydriver

Honest question.

I’ll never be able to afford a PM piece like any of these without liquidating the bulk of my collection (which I don’t want to do) BUT…

I’m very curious as to the mindset behind those fortunate enough to afford and acquire a 1908.

I think the 1908 is beautiful, but it has some competition. Why would you choose it over …say these references ?


Lange Saxonia. The strongest price point competitor at 23k. Seems logical that they will be cross shopped.


1815. I know 9k is heaps of money, but you’re spending a lot anyway and the 9k is less than a third more. Is money the only reason you would take the 1908 over this gorgeous ALS?


Finally. The “sub” of dress watches. The Calatrava. The most affordable small seconds reference is the 6119 at $31.9k. Like the ALS 1815, it’s a ton of money , but I threw it in as it seemed like a formidable, albeit, pricey competitor.


Again … Just curious what your thoughts are. If I was in a position to buy 1908, I would be thinking about this question. I can’t wait for the eventual incomings of the 1908 !!

Pros. Cons. Thoughts ?


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This ALS is my favorite in that category. However, when it comes to dress watches, a DJ41 works for me.




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[Big Tex Rolex]

1. It’s a Rolex, and I’m a Rolex guy.

(I own a Breguet (YG), but only because the Cellini was not available in Yellow Gold.)

2. The ALS offerings are a little plain … I love them, and wanted one (again, No YG) … but they’re a little plain … I love the pop that the 1908 Duel Bezel has … Domed and Fluted.

3. PP 6119R is a beautiful watch, but is only offered in Rose or White Gold.

4. My friend dropped his Breguet onto his desk, from 2 feet … $7,000 to repair … I can’t wait for that day for me … that will be fun.

5. It’s a Rolex. Correction … it’s a Yellow Gold Rolex dress watch, with Alligator strap, that can be worn formally (Black strap), or casually every day, with every wardrobe.

6. I asked my AD at 9:01 to put me on the list for the Rolex 1908 … I can’t wait to own this watch … I’ve been waiting about 12 years (longer?) for a Yellow Gold dress watch from Rolex.

[BayAreaTech]

I do not agree using price alone to differentiate these pieces. Price does not equal value. I'm excited the crown is attempting something different to gain foothold in the Haute Horlogerie market while staying on brand. I would love to know more about the finishing techniques of the 1908. Though what I can see from the pictures, the 1908 has the following going for it.

* Case finishing including polishing, chamfering, sinks, perlage, côtes de genève, various graining techniques.
* Automatic winding
* Skeletonized rotor in 18k gold
* Deployment buckle clasp
* Silicon hairspring, 66 hour power reserve.

It appears in stock photos to be exceptionally well done.

[Kenny G]

The 6119R blows them both away imo. I wouldn’t buy the 1908 despite being a Rolex fan but it’s a step in the right direction to increase their presence in the dress watch world and I commend them for that.

[Guppydriver]

Originally Posted by Big Tex Rolex

1. It’s a Rolex, and I’m a Rolex guy.

(I own a Breguet (YG), but only because the Cellini was not available in Yellow Gold.)

2. The ALS offerings are a little plain … I love them, and wanted one (again, No YG) … but they’re a little plain … I love the pop that the 1908 Duel Bezel has … Domed and Fluted.

3. PP 6119R is a beautiful watch, but is only offered in Rose or White Gold.

4. My friend dropped his Breguet onto his desk, from 2 feet … $7,000 to repair … I can’t wait for that day for me … that will be fun.

5. It’s a Rolex. Correction … it’s a Yellow Gold Rolex dress watch, with Alligator strap, that can be worn formally (Black strap), or casually every day, with every wardrobe.

6. I asked my AD at 9:01 to put me on the list for the Rolex 1908 … I can’t wait to own this watch … I’ve been waiting about 12 years (longer?) for a Yellow Gold dress watch from Rolex.

I'll be super excited for your 1908 incoming Big Tex. Seems the stars finally aligned to get your watch in production, hopefully they align one more time and soon to get it on your wrist.

[Chute]

As much as I like the look of dress watches, I just don’t wear them.
It’s hot in Texas and leather just won’t last for full day wear.
I went through this debate around 3 years ago and did consider the Cellini at the time.
But for me, the Patek Calatrava and the Vacheron Patrimony were the front runners.
Lange is great but just too boring looking for me.
Ultimately, I went with the now discontinued Patek 5196G which is way under the radar in white gold.
If I had to pick today, I’d go with the 6119G, that Grey dial is amazing.
Glad you like the 1908. I don’t hate it. I just don’t care for Rolex dress watches.

[Big Tex Rolex]

Originally Posted by Kenny G

The 6119R blows them both away imo. I wouldn’t buy the 1908 despite being a Rolex fan but it’s a step in the right direction to increase their presence in the dress watch world and I commend them for that.

I’m afraid Rolex loses their audience at the $32K price point … and that’s what it would take to get them to build a watch that can compare orange to orange with a PP.

Rolex is a luxury brand, with moderate pricing, in comparison to other luxury brands … a Daytona is $15K … a Cosmograph from AP is $50K.

At $22K this looks to be a very nice watch … I won’t know until it’s on the wrist, but that’s where it’s headed !!!

[Kliminator]

Both the other options that you mentioned in your original post are more aesthetically pleasing than the 1908 (IMO). I love both the 1815 line from ALS and own a 6119G. Both are more refined/elegant (again, IMO)

[Big Tex Rolex]

Originally Posted by Guppydriver

I'll be super excited for your 1908 incoming Big Tex. Seems the stars finally aligned to get your watch in production, hopefully they align one more time and soon to get it on your wrist.

Thank you for this.

Lol … about every 6 weeks or so, I would drop a post on here saying something like … If Rolex would just make the Cellini in Yellow Gold, I’d buy it today … hoping Rolex was reading our notes !!! Double lol.

But I actually do like the style of this watch … I cannot think of a single critique.

I look forward to seeing one in person, and hopefully it’s available.

[Krash]

Originally Posted by Chute

As much as I like the look of dress watches, I just don’t wear them.
It’s hot in Texas and leather just won’t last for full day wear.
I went through this debate around 3 years ago and did consider the Cellini at the time.
But for me, the Patek Calatrava and the Vacheron Patrimony were the front runners.
Lange is great but just too boring looking for me.
Ultimately, I went with the now discontinued Patek 5196G which is way under the radar in white gold.
If I had to pick today, I’d go with the 6119G, that Grey dial is amazing.
Glad you like the 1908. I don’t hate it. I just don’t care for Rolex dress watches.

Yeah, I live in FL. This works best for me. Plus, I can swim with it too.




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[Big Tex Rolex]

Lest we forget …

PS … I sent this picture to a good friend of mine, who collects Patek Philippe dress watches … he has 12 of them …

He wrote back asking for my AD’s phone number !!




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[Eagles4133]

Rolex toughness, bottom line. First off, let’s mention that it’s actually water resistant.
Yes, the others have finer finishing, more brand presence in relation to a true dress watch, but some people prefer specific brands. Most likely cheaper repairs and services, longer intervals, etc. some may say that if you can spend $30k on a watch you shouldn’t care about a service, but I don’t like throwing money away. Yes, ALS would probably get my
vote, but the carefree Rolex fits my lifestyle.

[Rollieo]

I have the 6119r, so the 1908 intrigued me and is quite an interesting release from Rolex.

The 1908 looks great. Beautiful layout with simple time only and transparent case back in a sub 10mm thickness while being automatic. It’s really got the character of a nice dress piece. The fluted bezel also adds a nice touch to the clean design. The clasp I feel Rolex does really well, and better than my 6119 that just has a tang buckle. The only design element I don’t like is the hour hand.

Thinking about it though, if I had a chance to do it over again, I can’t see myself picking the 1908 over the 6119. The weird thing is it’s not the design, I really like both. I do think the 6119’s design is better, but not sure if it’s $10k better. But a dress watch on leather strap just feels Patek.

[Jmaster]

The fact that people are comparing this new offering to Patek, ALS, and the likes suggests Rolex is successful in elevating itself within the high horology with this new release. In that world, Rolex is never really compared to those brands. I always think Rolex is closer to JLC and maybe a step above Omega rather than the holy trinity +. The novelty of this new release will certainly draw some buyers but ant this price, I rather look at other brands with Geneva seal level of movement and case finishes.

[GB-man]

I would have bought it in SS for like 12k max

[7enderbender]

I get the Patek, though prefer the designs from VC. Don’t own either and don’t think I ever will. Rolex for me is centered around some of the purpose driven “sports models”. It’s not fine watchmaking. For dress watches I’m ok with JLC and Blancpain and such.
I personally will always rule out any watch brand from East Germany (and yes I know they are very well made and Swiss owned). I grew up in West Germany so pardon my snobbery. The designs are pretty ugly anyway. We actually have 19th century Lange pocket watch in our family. Never really connected with that one either even though it actually has a pretty interesting history.

[Chewbacca]

There’s a lot of anti Rolex 1908 talk on this thread.

[CFR]

I'm excited to see the 1908 in person!

The one thing I'm not sure about with the 1908 is the display back. In general I think Rolex and Omega should keep their clothes on. But I'm keeping an open mind and waiting to see it in in the metal. Maybe looking at this movement will be okay, though it won't have the level of finishing of a Lange or a Patek (and functionally we don't know how this new 7140 movement will fare).

Aesthetically, I like the Rolex 1908 dial more than the Lange Saxonia dial (and the Patek, which doesn't do anything for me).

But keep in mind that the $23,000 Saxonia (same price point as the Rolex 1908) is the 35mm model (which does have a second hand), and the $23,500 Saxonias are the Saxonia Thin models that lack a second hand. The "apples to apples" comparison between the Rolex 1908 and a Saxonia model would probably be the 38.5mm Saxonia Automatik, but those cost $30.7K -- basically same price as a manual-wind 1815 and considerably more than the Rolex 1908.

The Rolex 1908 vs. the Lange 1815 is another story entirely. LOVE the1815. Always have. But again, it's not really apples to apples. Lange hasn't made an 1815 with an automatic movement since 2008, so the current comparisons would be to the manual wind 1815.

I'll throw something else into the mix that's new this year and is at the same price point as the Rolex 1908: The new Chopard L.U.C. 1860, which is very similar to the ones from the late 1990s except now they don't have a date. The movements on these are mind-blowing. Love the microrotor. Here are pics of the new one at bottom (and old ones with date at top and on wrist).

[RichardBartlett]

We all know Cellini name and line has been a weak point for Rolex for years so I guess we're all glad it's been addressed.

It certainly comes a lot closer still doesn't hit the bullseye for me but it has upped their game considerably. Nice to see Rolex do have a serious side

[DonLee]

The only reason why someone would take a 1908 over a Lange, is that he wants a Pepsi and needs to spend money at his AD to get to what he really wants.

The Lange dress watches are really desirable watches outright. some of them you even need to pay a premium on the grey market.

[77T]

Why the 1908 over x, y, or z?
It’s Rolex
You got a problem with that?


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[Henrimontgomery]

The true alternative is the Bréguet classique, which has the same bubble hand.

[alphadweller]

The 1908 is a step in the right direction. I like it, but I dont love it. It doesn't look like your typical dress piece. Some people might like that but I'm more traditional in that respect.

There are several emblematic and beautiful dress watches I'd pick over this. VC Patrimony (owned), VC Traditionnelle, PP Calatrava, Breguet 7147, JLC MUT to name a few.

Not a fan of the lettering above the seconds subdial "Superlative Chronometer", it detracts from the elegance of the piece. You don't want that on a dress watch. Other than that, looks OK.

[speedbird]

Interesting question and nice to read the thoughts above.

I would reverse the question a little, what do you all think about improvements over the Cellini. Agreed it didn’t have the following and hype of other Rolex models, but I don’t see huge improvements in the 1908 perpetual for what is nearly a 50% price increase over the outgoing time model.

The look is also a little more vintage perhaps which may narrow the market. Thoughts?

[Chesterling]

Jaeger has a nice ultra thin gold option too

[gnardex]

Originally Posted by Chesterling

Jaeger has a nice ultra thin gold option too

Exactly, this is, in my opinion, the direct competitor of 1908.
the ultra thin JLC
same diameter 39mm, same type (automatic, PP 6119 is manual, and so Lange), same complication (small seconds at 6), JLC is 1 mm thinner
and cost: SAME! 23k each
here is the ultrathin JLC we should compare. Lange and PP are a different category