Open work, open dial watches?

[Easy E]

I have been on and off about open dial/open worked watches. I find them interesting, got close to purchasing one or two along the way. I have always noticed, even on mid-tier pieces, that they tend to run a good 10%-20% higher than their closed faced counter parts. Is there a legit reason for the premium or is a premium because its just supposed to be that way? What's your take on that?

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by Easy E

I have been on and off about open dial/open worked watches. I find them interesting, got close to purchasing one or two along the way. I have always noticed, even on mid-tier pieces, that they tend to run a good 10%-20% higher than their closed faced counter parts. Is there a legit reason for the premium or is a premium because its just supposed to be that way? What's your take on that?

A high quality openworked watch means you have a lot more surface area that requires labor intensive finishing.

For example, my Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has two internal angles on the front, and a ton of hand executed anglage. Plus a "normal' mini dial. This is all more labor intensive than doing "just" a dial.

Another good example is the Breguet Tradition.

[brandrea]

It usually just comes down to movement finishing.

I appreciate their beauty but I can’t see ever owning one. I’d rather have an open caseback and a readable dial, YMMV

[Easy E]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

A high quality openworked watch means you have a lot more surface area that requires labor intensive finishing.

For example, my Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has two internal angles on the front, and a ton of hand executed anglage. Plus a "normal' mini dial. This is all more labor intensive than doing "just" a dial.

Another good example is the Breguet Tradition.

For sure, 100% got that with the likes of a Breguet or better. On some of those brands I think the premium can even be a bit higher. How about the machine finished mid-tier pieces? Do you think there is just enough extra attention with those? Maybe...I'm not saying there is not. Just investigating.

[Enzo954]

The whole "readable dial" criticism IMO is a generational thing. People act like taking an extra second to read the time while your eyes adjust to where the hands are on an open works or skeleton watch is a huge deal. The modern wristwatch wearer cares more about how it looks or brand prestige over legibility.

As I'm typing this I have a wristwatch on showing the time, my cell phone is placed next to the keyboard showing the time, my pc screen has the time on the bottom right corner, the news channel on my tv is showing the time in the corner. My point is that time is quickly accessed and shoved in our face by multiple devices at just about all times. Modern day watches are more about fashion over legibility. Of course this doesn't apply to everyone, but I believe it does apply to most people living in the modern world.

[taura]

I actually use my watch all the time. It’s easy to glance on my way somewhere, instead of digging the phone out of whatever pocket it’s been stuffed into (especially in the winter). At work meetings, and especially when presenting, I just take a quick peek to keep track of the time, and it’s less distracting to myself/others than looking at the phone. Any watch whose the time is not immediately legible gets annoying - and leaves the collection - very quickly. Perhaps I’m in the minority or just old fashioned?

Edit: to stay on topic, that’s why I haven’t seen many openworked dial watches that I’d like to own. For some reason the hands are rarely made to contrast with the backdrop. There are exceptions of course.

[metallic]

Originally Posted by Enzo954

The whole "readable dial" criticism IMO is a generational thing. People act like taking an extra second to read the time while your eyes adjust to where the hands are on an open works or skeleton watch is a huge deal. The modern wristwatch wearer cares more about how it looks or brand prestige over legibility.

As I'm typing this I have a wristwatch on showing the time, my cell phone is placed next to the keyboard showing the time, my pc screen has the time on the bottom right corner, the news channel on my tv is showing the time in the corner. My point is that time is quickly accessed and shoved in our face by multiple devices at just about all times. Modern day watches are more about fashion over legibility. Of course this doesn't apply to everyone, but I believe it does apply to most people living in the modern world.

A wristwatch to tell time, an outrage!!!

But I understand your point. These expensive baubles are 90% jewelry and 10% function.

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by Easy E

For sure, 100% got that with the likes of a Breguet or better. On some of those brands I think the premium can even be a bit higher. How about the machine finished mid-tier pieces? Do you think there is just enough extra attention with those? Maybe...I'm not saying there is not. Just investigating.

Yes it's still an extra few steps. I own a jewelry brand and we have some rings that are more expensive to produce, and others that are cheaper due to similar dynamics.

Originally Posted by Enzo954

The whole "readable dial" criticism IMO is a generational thing. People act like taking an extra second to read the time while your eyes adjust to where the hands are on an open works or skeleton watch is a huge deal. The modern wristwatch wearer cares more about how it looks or brand prestige over legibility.

I agree 100%. I think it's a lot of old people on the forums that are 50+ and have bad eyes. I'm 31 so it's not a concern. Maybe when I'm old I'll care, until then, I'll enjoy my openworked watches.

Also for me...it's more about the quality of craftsmanship & engineering than a nicely designed object, if that makes sense. I know people prioritize different things though, and that's ok! I still have a lot of closed dial watches I love.

[enjoythemusic]

Aliexpress has an abundance of choices for less than $1000... including a tourbillon if that's your desire. If you want higher end, and/or specialized artistic expression, etc... sky is the limit. Imho we need to get Torsti Laine to do something.

[ap1]

I’ve owned several skeleton / ow watches - the look really appeals to me, we overuse “art” on the wrist for watches but I feel OW meets that definition.

AP ow, the grail
Mbf
PF
Moser
GP
Czapek
Chopard alpine Eagle
Cartier santos
Zenith defy
Christopher ward ~ the price point value play !

[Easy E]

Originally Posted by brandrea

It usually just comes down to movement finishing.

I appreciate their beauty but I can’t see ever owning one. I’d rather have an open caseback and a readable dial, YMMV

The ability to read the watch is of high priority to me also. It’s a watch 1st.

[Easy E]

Originally Posted by ap1

I’ve owned several skeleton / ow watches - the look really appeals to me, we overuse “art” on the wrist for watches but I feel OW meets that definition.

AP ow, the grail
Mbf
PF
Moser
GP
Czapek
Chopard alpine Eagle
Cartier santos
Zenith defy
Christopher ward ~ the price point value play !

Good list. The new LE Christopher Ward piece is interesting at its price point……and well that AP…whew.